Hair Grease, Pomade and Hair Oil Tips

Question: I was just looking at your website and reading your hair tips. You said that you do not recommend using hair grease on the scalp? What do you recommend for the hair/scalp?

Answer: Nothing goes on the scalp. The sebaceous glands take care of the scalp. It does not need us to help it. It is the oldest hair we need to focus on, the ends.

Question: I usually oil my hair when it is wet to keep down the dandruff. Will the Silky Spray moisturizer still work if there is oil on the hair?

Answer: Although you said "oil the hair" I think you meant oil your scalp. When you get my book you will understand that oiling your scalp is one of the reasons you may have dandruff in the first place! Hair grease generally contains petroleum or mineral oil which coats like liquid saran wrap by blocking the pores. So whatever moisture is inside will stay for a while but it prevents other moisture from getting in. The scalp does not need your help; the sebaceous glands provide all the oil your scalp needs.

Question: I feel that though our scalps and skin produce sebum, this may not be sufficient (why else do we need to moisturize our skin with Vaseline, cocoa butter etc., it does feel pretty dry without it!). To prescribe no oils for the scalp may not be suitable for everybody, I think. My skin feels especially. dry after a shower/bath, so isn't the scalp especially in need of oil after washes and retouches?? For various reason eg. Environmental conditions, genetics, diet etc. some people tend to have NATURALLY oily/dry skin, yes?

Answer: Your skin is not covered up by thousands of hairs so it will naturally dry out because of what we do to it and expose it to. (Bar soap is alkaline while shampoo is acid. If you washed your skin in a less alkaline product you skin would not dry out so easily either.) The scalp is covered with hair and added grease and oils inhibits the natural function of the glands. Build ups are caused by putting things on the scalp. The glands are producing and you are trying to assist them. They don’t need your oil help. It takes care of itself. That is the reason we often have dandruff. Putting oil on you scalp is not a requirement.

Question: I have read so much about how petroleum products and mineral oil are bad for the hair and actually make it dry and moisture repellent. I really feel if these products are put in moisturized hair (eg. just after a wash and deep conditioned, leave in conditioned, 'water'-moisturized state) the water is more likely to be RETAINED in the hair shaft and keep it moist for longer (perhaps till next wash 3/4 days later). I have experienced this with my own hair lately. Am I doing long-term damage with the petroleum and mineral oil, do you think?

Answer: Oil products like petroleum and mineral oil don’t hurt the hair but are terrible on the scalp. They can cause the scalp to have buildups and flaking much like dandruff. You are NOT causing damage to your hair by using them except that they lock moisture of the hair. I would not use them and I don’t advise others to use them either.

Question: I'm a teenage boy and I tried to grow out my hair but it stays the same length for the longest and it won’t grow. I don't know if you can help but if you can what type of hair grease should I use?

Answer: Hair is hair. It does not matter if you are male or female. Read my book for suggestions for keeping your hair on your head and from breaking. This is the focus of the book. Grease is NEVER used, nor is it recommended.

Question: Hi Cathy received your products on Saturday my daughter and I used them on our hair. It feels so much different already. Don't see as much hair falling. I love it. Our hair is very soft. I would like to know what you recommend to use as oil sheen. I will be sending in another order soon, for the larger size. I am so glad I read your book.

Answer: No oil sheen, choose hair polish. It is a cuticle smoother and is not greasy.

Question: If products like petrolatum and mineral oil are lubricants instead of moisturizers, are other oils (such as olive, canola, wheat germ, sweet almond, safflower, castor, sesame, jojoba, emu, peppermint, evening of primrose, coconut ) lubricants as well? And if so, are they bad for black hair since lubricants do not penetrate the hair?

Answer: ALL oil is a lubricant. Not necessarily bad for the hair, but it is bad when put on the scalp! The two oils that I know will not penetrate the hair or the scalp are mineral oil and petroleum.

Question: I've noticed that my hair looks shiny with the use of petroleum based products, but they leave my hair greasy, and I don't like that. Also, I've received comments that my hair looks fake now. I guess that's a compliment!! THANKS!

Answer: Avoid the petroleum products - just laying grease on your hair provides no benefit. Get a hair polish and I think you will be much happier.

Question: Do hot oil treatments provide any benefits? What is the purpose of having a hot oil treatment?

Answer: Yes, they lubricate the hair when the hair shaft is swelled with heat. The purpose of a hot oil treatment is to lubricate our dry hair. (In my book I teach you that you must preserve your hair, which is dead. And to preserve something dead, you need to keep it soft.)

Question: When I needed the extra oil because here in New York the weather is so cold, I opted for a hot oil treatment and my hair looked amazing afterward. However, I read in the book "Andre Talks Hair." that hot oils cannot moisturize because oil because water don’t' mix. What's up with that?

Answer: Oils are not supposed to moisturize, they lubricate! One of the biggest misconceptions we have as black people because we lived in the hair grease era.

Question: When my hair needs that extra oil in the cold winters of NY, what should I do?

Answer: Don’t blame the environment. If a hot oil treatment works for you by all means do it. I too need extra oil at times. A good crème moisturizer without protein like UBH Satin Crème moisturizer will provide the oils you feel your hair needs.

Question: Do you do separate hot oil treatments?

Answer: No, I do not do hot oil treatments alone. The UBH deep conditioner has oils in the products that serve the same purpose as a hot oil treatment. So when you deep condition with UBH deep condition you are getting a hot oil treatment at the same time. The oils are in the conditioner for that purpose.

Question: If the package label of hot oil says it moisturizes, is that another gimmick?

Answer: Gimmick NO, mislabeled package, yes. Oil is a lubricant, not a moisturizer.

Question: Should I use hair grease for the scalp if I decide to press my daughter's hair?

Answer: I don't recommend grease on the scalp at all!

Question: I just ordered your book on yesterday. If you don't mind, would you please tell me why you don't suggest using grease on the scalp? Also, what are the pros and/or cons of oil sheen? And after nearly two weeks without using my hair brush, I find that I have MUCH LESS hair in my comb. Thanks and I can't wait to get your book!

Answer: The reason for not using hair grease on the scalp is the scalp is not the problem. The hair ends are our problem. The sebaceous glands work on the scalp producing oil, so your efforts are concentrated in the wrong place when you focus on the scalp with oils.

There are no pros for oil sheen. Oil sheen is nothing more than “hair grease in a can”. I do not use hair grease but I do use hair polish. Hair polish is a non-greasy cuticle smoother and is very instrumental in smoothing the hair shaft and ends. Very good when the ends are split but do not need trimming just yet.

BTW, good job on giving up the brush. The book will open your eyes!

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